How much preparation depends on several factors that range from existing issues – leaks, and pipes that are vulnerable to freezing – to your water supply. Year-round homes will require less preparation than seasonal cottages. Houses on municipal water will require less preparation than rural or country homes on well water.
In addition, older homes and farmhouses that have a stone foundation may also have less insulation. Some homes may have a crawl space where less insulation could be a contributing factor to frozen pipes. Plumbing that is located on an exterior wall may also be vulnerable to freezing.
Foundations may develop cracks and holes over the years, or have old caulking around windows, that can provide an entry point for cold air and water from heavy rainfall. Wind chill is one of the biggest contributors to freezing pipes.
Use pipe insulation on both the cold and hot water lines, and drain lines, that are located along an outside wall. Pipe insulation is available in a variety of diameters. This will also help to curb condensation.
A heat tracer cable can be installed on the inside of a pipe. It’s commonly used when drawing water from a lake, river, or well.
In other pre-winter prep, disconnect garden hoses from outside taps and drain them. The taps should also be drained and left open. There should be a shut-off on the plumbing line inside the house that turns the water off to the outside tap.
If there is a sprinkler system, it should be winterized as well. If there are plumbing lines that extend to outbuildings such as a shed or workshop, second suite, or stand-alone garage, add a barrier if the plumbing runs underground.
Also, add a barrier or marker to plumbing lines that run underground through a driveway from the street, well, lake, or other water source going to the house. The barrier or marker is to keep people and vehicles from driving the cold down below the frost line.
It’s a good idea to do the same if you’re on a septic system that has a small chamber to pump wastewater to a septic bed. Prevent people from walking on it by placing something over it that can be seen above the snow.
For seasonal residences, the water system will need to be drained. Turn off the power to the pump that supplies water to the cottage. Drain the water pump and all the lines. Leave all the taps, levers, or knobs, inside and out, open.
Drain any appliances and add plumbing antifreeze where it’s required including sink and shower drains. Drain water purification and filtration systems.
Flush the toilet twice. This will take most of the water out of the back of the toilet and the bowl. The remaining water needs to be plunged out or removed with a sponge. Also, disconnect the small water supply line at the side of the toilet to allow it to drain too, and reconnect before adding antifreeze to the tank and bowl.
Cottages that have a sewage pump will need a final pump for the septic system. Some drain this line too before adding antifreeze to the pump chamber. Turn off the power.
If someone uses the cottage after the water system has been shut down and winterized, it could lead to plumbing problems later. Some preventative measures to prevent inadvertent use include taping the toilet seat down and turning off the breaker and any switches to the water heater so that the element won’t burn out. Tape the breaker shut and mark it “OFF”.
